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Meryl and I thought things were already a bit interesting having took a flight to Belize City via San Salvador on Taca. Well, that was just the start. Visions of an Aaliyah style Christmas flashed through my head as we approached San Pedro.
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We dropped our luggage at the marina and met up with Steven and Tony at BC's on the beach for a round of Belikin and nachos. We hired a car for an hour or so to take us around town and provision our boat for the week ahead. We used a conservative estimate of one case of Belikin beer per person per week.
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We had to send Simon up the mast to check the anchor light and look after a few electric problems before departing San Pedro. We finally set sail and hung from the strouds as Duran Duran's Rio blasted from the yacht's sound system.
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We anchored up in Caye Caulker and took the launch ashore. Caulker is the island of choice for backpackers and expatriates looking to escape modern life. A perfect day for water volleyball and laying around in the sun.
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We rendezoused with Paradise Down dive shop and went out to the southern tip of the Turneffe Atoll, also known as The Elbow. The Elbow is a series of deep pinnacles adjacent to the drop-off. Usually bathed in current, the area is a mixingbowl of mature marine life, including many large groupers and schools of jacks, snappers and Spadefish. The area is one of Belize's few advanced dives.
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On-board GPS didn't have detailed local charts, but my handheld put us at Shag's Bogue in the Drowned Cayes. The Drowned Cayes are a string of mangrove islands about 13 km long, between Belize City and the Barrier Reef. They are located about 8 km east of Belize City and less than 2 km west of the Barrier Reef.
The Drowned Cayes got their name because the islands are mostly made up of red mangroves, supported by their big red prop roots, which are "drowned" in seawater at high tide. There is almost no true ground. As the mangrove roots slow down the flow of seawater, sediment and organic matter settles among the roots creating a marshy and wet substrate known as peat.
This evening brought the best sunset of the trip, which was a perfect time for Tony and I to light up our Cuban cigars. The light of day passed and revealed the most amazing display of stars I've ever seen. The density and brightness unmatched by anything I could have imagined.
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Heading north, we stopped to explore St. George's Caye. This idyllic island was all but abandoned by the locals. We met a representative of the British military who provided a warm welcome. They use St. George's as an R&R camp for troops completing jungle training on mainland Belize.
We were hoping that they'd have water to spare. Our stupid French boat read half full when the fresh water tank was empty. US Dollars to the rescue as we filled up with bottled water from Caulker.
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Steven and Tony left for Guatemala as Meryl and I enjoyed Christmas on-shore San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, Madonna's La Isla Bonita.
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Christmas afternoon was perfect for another dive, sans wetsuit, at the Hol Chan Marine reserve. Menacing groupers approached, obviously feed by local divemasters, while we swam amongst beautiful large schools of creole wrasses.
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We rented a 4x4 golf cart to explore Ambergris Caye. The island is split in two by a river that is passable only by an almost sinking barge. 45 minutes north brought us to 'Temptation Island' where we sat and enjoyed the view for about an hour.
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